From a slow afternoon in Lim Bay to a day ashore on Brijuni, the best of the Istrian coast is seen from the water. Which trip to choose, and how to choose a good one.
Walk along any harbour in Istria on a summer morning and you will find a row of boats with chalkboards and loudspeakers, each promising islands, swimming, lunch and dolphins. Some of these trips are wonderful. Others are crowded, loud and rushed. The difference is rarely the route; it is the boat, the crew and the time of day. This guide covers the main trips from the Istrian coast and what to look for before you step on board.
Lim Bay: the classic half day
The trip into Lim Bay is the most popular boat excursion in Istria, and for good reason. The long, narrow inlet between Vrsar and Rovinj is a drowned river valley with wooded slopes rising steeply on both sides, and from the water it feels like a world away from the beaches. Boats leave from Rovinj, Vrsar, Poreč and other towns along the west coast. Many combine the bay with a swimming stop and a lunch break, often with oysters or mussels from the farms in the bay itself.
Lim Bay is protected, so rules on anchoring, swimming and fishing apply inside it. On an organised trip the skipper handles this; on a hired boat, ask what is allowed before you set off.
Brijuni: a day ashore in a national park
The Brijuni islands are a national park just off the coast near Fažana, a short hop from Pula. To actually land on the main island, Veli Brijun, you book a visit with the national park, which runs its own boats from the harbour in Fažana. The visit includes a guided tour of the island, with its Roman villa, safari park and Tito-era history, and you can stay on afterwards to walk or cycle.
Other excursion boats sail around the archipelago from Fažana, Pula and Medulin, sometimes stopping to swim, but these are sightseeing cruises rather than visits to the park. If seeing the islands up close is what matters to you, book with the park directly and spend the evening in Fažana, which is a pleasure in itself.
Islands off Rovinj, Vrsar and Poreč
The west coast is scattered with small islands, and many of them can be reached by short taxi boats or regular seasonal lines. From Rovinj, boats run across to St Catherine's island and the Red Island, with its pine woods and swimming coves; our guide to the Rovinj archipelago covers them in detail. Poreč has a seasonal boat to the island of Sveti Nikola, opposite the old town, and the islets in front of Vrsar are a favourite for swimming stops.
Kamenjak, Medulin and the south
At the southern tip of Istria, boats from Medulin and Premantura head out to the islets of Medulin Bay and around the cliffs of Cape Kamenjak. The coast here is wilder and more open, with clear water, sea caves and the lighthouse on the islet of Porer. When the sea is calm it is one of the most beautiful stretches of coast in Istria; when the wind blows from the south or north-east, trips may be cut short or cancelled.
Fish picnics, sunsets and dolphins
- Fish picnic. A day on a traditional wooden boat with a swim or two and grilled fish served on deck. Simple and cheerful; quality varies a lot, so read recent reviews.
- Sunset cruise. A shorter evening trip, often from Rovinj, Poreč or Pula. The light on the old towns from the sea is the reason to go. Our list of the best sunset spots has more ideas.
- Dolphin watching. Bottlenose dolphins live in the northern Adriatic and are sometimes seen off Istria. Good operators keep their distance and never promise a sighting.
- Venice by catamaran. In the season, fast passenger catamarans cross from several Istrian ports to Venice and back in a day. Carry your passport or ID card.
The difference is rarely the route; it is the boat, the crew and the time of day.
Hiring a boat, with or without a skipper
If you would rather set your own pace, small motorboats can be hired in most harbours. Some can be driven without a licence, while larger boats require a recognised boating licence; the rental company will tell you what applies. A boat with a skipper costs more but removes the worry about winds, anchoring rules and protected areas. For longer trips under sail, read our guide to sailing in Istria, which explains the maestral, the bura and the jugo.
How to choose a good boat trip
- Ask how many people. A smaller boat is quieter and stops in better places.
- Ask what is included. Lunch, drinks and swimming stops vary from trip to trip.
- Look at the shade. A boat without a covered deck is hard work on a July afternoon.
- Go early. Morning trips have calmer water and softer light.
- Check the forecast. Trips are cancelled in strong wind for a reason. Do not push to go.
- Bring. Sun cream, a hat, water, a towel and, if you are prone to it, something for seasickness.
However you go out, the view back to the coast is the point: stone towns on their headlands, bell towers above the roofs, pine woods running down to the rocks. It is the view that made Istria's harbours, and it is still the best way to understand them.
