Caves, Byzantine mosaics, a castle above an abyss, wine cellars and long lunches. How to turn a wet day in Istria into one of the best of the trip.
Istria has plenty of sunshine, but rain does come, sometimes as a short summer storm and sometimes as a grey day in spring or autumn. The good news is that the peninsula has more to do indoors than most beach destinations, and a wet day is often the push you need to discover the interior, the history and the food.
Here are ten ideas, from the obvious to the slightly unexpected. Opening times change with the season, so check before you drive.
1. Go underground at Baredine cave
Near Poreč, Baredine is a show cave with guided tours through a series of chambers decorated with stalactites, stalagmites and curtains of flowstone. The temperature inside is cool and constant all year, so the weather above hardly matters. It is a good choice with children, who usually find it more exciting than any museum.
2. See the mosaics of the Euphrasian Basilica
In the centre of Poreč, the Episcopal Complex of the Euphrasian Basilica is on the UNESCO World Heritage List and is one of the finest examples of early Byzantine art in the Mediterranean. The sixth-century mosaics in the apse glow with gold, even on a dull day. Allow time for the atrium, the baptistery and the bell tower. We cover it in detail in our guide to Poreč and the Euphrasian Basilica.
3. Visit Pazin castle and look into the abyss
In the centre of the peninsula, Pazin castle stands on the edge of a deep gorge where the river Pazinčica disappears underground. The castle houses the Ethnographic Museum of Istria, with traditional costumes, tools and household objects that explain rural life on the peninsula, and the town museum. The abyss below famously appears in a novel by Jules Verne. See our Pazin guide.
4. Spend a morning with the Romans in Pula
Pula's arena is open to the sky, but a light rain does not spoil it, and the underground passages offer shelter. Nearby, the Temple of Augustus on the old forum, the Arch of the Sergii and the Roman floor mosaic hidden in a courtyard make a compact walk. Finish in a café or at the covered market hall. More ideas are in Pula beyond the arena.
5. Learn about the batana in Rovinj
The batana is the traditional flat-bottomed wooden boat of Rovinj, and the town has an eco-museum dedicated to it, the Batana House, on the harbour. It tells the story of fishermen, boatbuilders and their songs, and it is small enough for a short visit between showers. Afterwards, the wet stone streets of the old town are atmospheric and almost empty.
6. Taste wine in a cellar
Rain is the perfect excuse for a winery. Many Istrian producers welcome visitors for tastings, usually by appointment, and a cellar is pleasant whatever the weather. Taste Malvazija, the fresh white of the region, and Teran, the deep red of the red soil. Our guide to the wines of Istria explains what to look for.
7. Learn to taste olive oil
Istrian olive oil has a strong reputation, and many producers offer tastings that teach you how to recognise fruitiness, bitterness and the peppery bite of fresh oil. It is a surprisingly absorbing hour, and you leave with a bottle and a new way of tasting.
A wet day is often the push you need to discover the interior.
8. Have a long lunch in a konoba
A konoba is a traditional Istrian tavern, often in an old stone house with a fireplace. On a grey day, nothing beats homemade fuži or pljukanci pasta, a bowl of maneštra soup, a plate of pršut and cheese, and a fire in the corner. Take your time; the rain will pass, or it will not, and either way lunch will have been the right decision.
9. Climb a hill town in the mist
Light rain and low cloud suit the hill towns. Motovun, Grožnjan and Hum look extraordinary when mist fills the valleys, and their galleries, studios and small churches offer shelter along the way. Grožnjan in particular is full of small art galleries and studios. Just wear shoes with good grip, as the old stones become slippery when wet.
10. Take the waters at Istarske Toplice
In the north of the peninsula, below a tall cliff near the Mirna river, the thermal spa of Istarske Toplice has been used for its mineral waters for a very long time. A swim or a treatment there is a gentle way to spend a cold or wet afternoon, especially combined with a truffle lunch in the nearby villages.
Rainy day checklist
- Check opening times. Caves, museums and tasting rooms vary by season; some tastings need booking.
- Drive carefully. Roads can be slippery after the first rain following a dry spell.
- Start early. On a wet summer day everyone has the same idea, so popular indoor sights fill up by late morning.
- Bring a layer. Caves and stone churches are cool even in summer.
- Combine. Pair one sight with one meal: Baredine and Poreč, Pazin and a konoba, Pula and the market.
Rain is part of the place
Without rain there would be no green hills in spring, no truffles in autumn and no full olive harvest. A wet day is a reminder that Istria is not only a beach. Spend it in the interior, at the table or under a Byzantine mosaic, and you may find it is the day you remember best.
